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WINEMAKING
Prior to fermentation, Merry adds dry ice, frozen carbon dioxide gas, to "cold soak" the crushed grapes

Merry Edwards describes her winemaking as “rooted in the vineyard”.  One of the first California winemakers to recognize the impact of clonal selection on wine aroma, texture and quality, Merry continues to study and experiment with clones.  She draws upon her research and practical experience, selecting Pinot Noir clones that contribute to her wines' complexity and intensity.  “Many of the clones undergoing development in Burgundy almost 30 years ago are available today in America.  What’s more, I find that some of the classic California clones and field selections —such as Martini, Swan and the Merry Edwards selection from Mount Eden — excel here in the Russian River Valley.”  For her Sauvignon Blanc production, Merry favors the Sauvignon Musqué clone.

Engaged in state-of-the-art viticulture and hands-on sustainable farming, Merry commits herself to the vines throughout the growing season.  She can frequently be found at her own Meredith, Coopersmith and Georganne vineyards or at those under contract with the region’s finest growers.  She employs her own full time vineyard staff.  On a daily basis her husband Ken oversees the labor-intensive handwork such as pruning, shoot positioning, rigorous crop thinning and precise irrigation management.  “I focus on preserving the flavors and texture born in the vineyard, and spend more and more of my time walking the vine rows — measuring, evaluating, tasting and planning.  By the time the grapes arrive at the winery crush pad, my winemaking is 75 percent complete.”

In the winery, Merry and her staff employ techniques to produce balanced wines with the structure and depth to age with refined complexity.  Her objective is to enhance, but not overshadow, the qualities of the grapes.  “Each vineyard has its own personality.  My winemaking assignment – my signature – is to protect and develop these enchanting idiosyncrasies in fruit forward, full bodied, silky Pinot Noirs.”  Merry’s winemaking techniques vary on a lot-by-lot basis; she selects whole cluster or whole berry fermentation, punching down or pumping over the cap.  She insists on gentle handling, prefers direct barreling after fermentation and avoids racking.

Drawing from her favorite coopers, Merry frames the fruit character with complementary French oak barrels.  Each year she purchases a large percentage of new French cooperage, replacing her barrels after one or two vintages.  Describing her ritual of ordering custom-made, cooper-selected barrels, she says “I rely on the coopers’ experienced judgment - they make the key decisions to complement the style of my wine.”  At present she works with six coopers:  Dargaud & Jaegle, François Frères, Cadus, Remond, Doreau and Mercurey.

For her Sauvignon Blanc, Merry barrel ferments the wine, using a small percentage of new Cadus oak and a mixture of older cooperage to lift and balance the fruit character with sweet aromatics.  Employing the traditional French practice of bâtonnage, she stirs the lies twice weekly, adding body and depth to the palate.

Indulging her thirsty intellect and tireless curiosity, Merry conducts ongoing experiments with each vintage.  “I like to try new things, in little increments, to improve the flavor and texture of my wines.”  Recognizing that yeast strains significantly affect the aroma, flavor and texture of Pinot Noir, she continues to evaluate the character of selected yeasts.  Merry’s 33 years of innovation have, in some cases, convinced her to adopt new approaches and abandon techniques she used with prior vintages.  Today she cold soaks her Pinot Noir, chilling the must prior to inoculation with yeast.  Whereas in the past she fermented fruit at cool temperatures, she now favors a warm environment.  Years ago she racked frequently; today she avoids aeration, allowing the wine to develop sur lies in barrel, stirring selected lots to build texture.  “I am always looking for ways to improve my wines.  When I am asked to name my best Pinot Noir, I say I have not yet made that wine.”

Merry uses a pneumatic tool to
"punch down"the cap of skins and seed
three times daily during fermentation.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Wineglass photo © M.J. Wickham
Merry with grapes © Barbara Bowman