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Wine and Food: Recipes

GRILLED WILD SALMON WITH A ROASTED BEET AND ARUGULA SALAD

Serves 6

I love this combination and its great with lower tannin red wines like pinot noir. The beets can be roasted a day ahead and the jus also made ahead and warmed for service. The recipe also calls for using baby beets. If you can’t find them, use large beets cut into wedges before roasting.

Ingredients:
6 six ounce salmon fillets or steaks (preferably wild caught)
Olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
12 each baby red and golden beets (method follows)
3 cups or so tender young arugula leaves, washed
Balsamic reduction (recipe follows)

Preparation:
Remove any bones from the salmon. Brush with olive oil and season lightly with salt and pepper. Grill salmon over moderately hot coals on both sides until cooked medium rare (still translucent in the center). Arrange roasted beets and arugula attractively on plates; preferably shallow soup or pasta plates. Place salmon along side and drizzle a couple of tablespoons of the reduction around.

To roast beets
Scrub beets thoroughly, remove and save greens for another use. Lightly oil beets with
olive oil and roast in a pan loosely covered with foil until tender. Time will depend on size of beets. Baby beets will take 30 – 40 minutes. Large beets if roasted whole can take as long as 2 hours. Remove and with a towel rub off the skins. Set aside.

Balsamic reduction
Makes about 1/2 cup

1 large clove garlic, chopped
2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary leaves
2 tablespoons chopped dried mushrooms such as porcini or shiitake
2-1/2 cups rich chicken or fish stock
1/4 cup or so good quality Balsamic Vinegar
1 tablespoons softened butter
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Add the garlic, rosemary and dried mushrooms to the stock and reduce over high heat by half. Add vinegar and continue to reduce to a light sauce consistency. This can take 20 minutes or more. Strain carefully and whisk in butter. Season to taste with salt and pepper and keep warm. If making ahead wait till serving time to whisk in butter. To store, cover and refrigerate up to 1 week.

John Ash came to national prominence in 1985 when he was selected by Food & Wine magazine as one of America’s “Hot New Chefs.” He founded his restaurant, John Ash & Company, in Northern California’s wine country, in 1980 and it continues to be critically acclaimed 25 years later.

Nationally renowned as a wine and food educator, John served for many years as the Culinary Director for Fetzer Vineyards and is on the faculty of The Professional Wine Studies Program at the CIA Greystone. He travels widely teaching to both home and professional cooks. He has a new winery venture called Sauvignon Republic Cellars specializing in Sauvignon Blanc only produced around the world.

John has written 3 books. His latest, John Ash Cooking One-on-One: Kitchen Secrets from a Master Teacher, published by Clarkson Potter won a 2005 James Beard award. He has authored two other books: From the Earth to the Table: John Ash’s Wine Country Cuisine and American Game Cooking. The former was awarded the IACP awards for Best American Cookbook and the Julia Child Cookbook of the Year.

John writes regularly for the Los Angeles Times Syndicate and is a contributor to publications such as Bon Appétit and Fine Cooking magazines. He was featured for two years on the Food Network and has co-hosted a live food and wine radio talk show in Northern California for the past 18 years. John is also a passionate voice for ethical and sustainable food issues and serves on the Board of Overseers for the Chef’s Collaborative, a national organization of chefs who support ethical agriculture.