Three distinguished vineyards provided grapes for this special wine. Olivet Lane and Quail Hill Ranch are blended with the last vintage harvested from Windsor Gardens. These venerable old vines have all seen more than thirty vintages, and harmonize in celebration of my first three decades of winemaking. I made just 333 cases of this luscious wine.

This stylish Pinot Noir originated in my own estate vineyard planted in 1998. Located on a southeast-facing slope at the southern boundary of the Russian River Valley, our sustainably-farmed vines produce grapes with a cool climate profile: heady, perfumed aromas and a sleek, firm structure.

Because multiple clones build complexity in wine, I planted five selections of Pinot Noir in my vineyard. The French clones enhance the structure of the wine, while the old, classic California selections round out the mid-palate. Drawing on the qualities of all five, I crafted a fruit-forward wine with a lively, accessible character. Gentle vinification and judicious use of French oak barrels produced this luscious Pinot Noir.

Aromas of rosewater, lavender and anise introduce this mouth-watering wine. Toasty oak takes its place in the background, integrating smoothly with the flavors of blueberry. Supple in the mouth, this Pinot Noir has a long finish, extending the enjoyment of its complex, fruity character. Quail breast glazed with lavender honey would be an excellent match for the wine’s full spectrum of flavors.

Sitting on prime benchland in the Santa Rosa Plain, Olivet Lane is one of our appellation's oldest Pinot Noir vineyards. The vines, over thirty years old, clearly convey the dramatic flavor that is the hallmark of Russian River Pinot Noir - captivating black cherry. This is my sixth consecutive vintage of Olivet Lane Pinot Noir, always a classic in my repertory.

The ripe grapes have attractive, concentrated flavors, which I enhance using Méthode à l'Ancienne, select techniques inspired by the traditions of Burgundian winemaking. The grapes cold soak in small, open-top vessels, contributing richness and smooth texture at the onset of vinification. During fermentation I punch down the cap several times daily to extract fully the intense flavors from this legendary vineyard. Aging the wine for ten months in seventy-five percent new French oak imparts a toasty accent to the succulent cherry flavor.

Elegant, with a pleasing touch of earthiness, this is a rich, alluring wine with a soft, luscious mouthfeel. Violets distinguish the inviting bouquet. The flavors expand, layers unfold and the finish lingers, forecasting a long life for this superbly integrated, silky Pinot Noir. Pair this wine's deep fruit character with salmon fillets grilled over apple wood.

A winemaker’s treasure, the Windsor Gardens vineyard flourished in the northern region of the Russian River Valley. Planted to the Martini clone more than thirty years ago and farmed by a committed, responsive grower, the non-irrigated, old vines bore a fine crop, intensely flavored with sumptuous texture. For this wine I selected fruit from vines growing in my favorite location - a small knoll above the vineyard floor.

Grapes this priceless are deserving of the most gentle handling and labor-intensive treatment, an approach I call Méthode à l’Ancienne. I cold soak the grapes, twenty percent of which are whole clusters. The wine ferments in small, open-top tanks, allowing me to punch down the cap and capture the grapes’ deep flavors and dense texture. After pressing, the wine ages for ten months in barrels crafted exclusively by the coopers of Dargaud & Jaegle.

The wine’s fragrance is seductive, an intriguing chorus of black raspberry, cassis and incense cedar. Showing true concentration both in aroma and on the palate, this soft, velvety Pinot Noir is structured with graceful tannins. The lengthy finish carries a note of toast, the oak elevating the impact of the opulent fruit. The 2002 Windsor Gardens has perfect symmetry; its grace and power will develop fully over the coming years. To highlight this stunning wine, serve a smoked duck risotto followed by roasted leg of lamb with fresh mushroom stew.

There will be one last vintage from this noble vineyard. Following harvest 2003, a developer removed these precious vines and began building houses on the site.

Outspoken as I am about my passion for Pinot Noir, I too rarely praise my favorite white wine – Sauvignon Blanc. Like Pinot Noir, this versatile varietal is a food lover’s wine, complementing a fascinating spectrum of flavors and cuisines. I’m gratified to have located two exceptional Sauvignon Blanc vineyards in the Russian River Valley where plantings of this grape variety are scarce.

Both small, hillside vineyards are over twenty-five years old and farmed by proud, attentive growers. Cohen Vineyard was the sole origin of grapes for my 2001 and 2002 vintages. This year I also included Hopkins Ranch, the source of grapes for my first Matanzas Creek Sauvignon Blanc in 1979.

I barrel fermented entirely sur lies, using a small proportion of new, elegant French oak from Tonnellerie Cadus. The wine developed a deep richness during its time in barrel as I practiced traditional bâtonnage, stirring the lees twice weekly.

The wine’s aromas are fresh and generous: honeysuckle, lemongrass and honey. In the mouth this Sauvignon Blanc is smooth and round with an appealing backbone of lively acidity. Beautifully balanced with a long, crisp finish, this is a tasteful choice for Thai spring rolls with peanut sauce or perhaps saffron scallops with fresh peas and cream.

Diversity builds complexity. When composing my Russian River Valley blend, I depend on grapes grown on a variety of ideal sites by masterful farmers in our region. I treasure the classic cherry aroma and round mouthfeel which are characteristic of the Santa Rosa Plain. Sebastopol Hills provides enticing perfume and bright acidity. Laguna Ridge contributes black fruit and rich tannins. The 2001 vintage brought me superb grapes with bright, focused flavors and exceptional depth.

Here is a vibrant Pinot Noir, expressing the region in an ideal vintage. Using grapes from Olivet Lane, my own Meredith Estate and Klopp Ranch, I cold-soaked the whole berries to enhance the fruit's bright cherry and raspberry flavors. Ten months of aging in French oak has gently lifted the fruit and contributed a creamy vanilla component.

Enticing aromas precede succulent flavors: Bing and Royal Ann cherry, Santa Rosa plum and red raspberry. Smooth and silky on the palate, this Pinot Noir delivers everything it promises, opening in seductive layers. The luscious fruit, supported by gentle tannins, extends through a long, expansive finish.

Ted Klopp's ranch sits on a crest of Laguna Ridge bordering the western edge of the wintertime lake known as Laguna de Santa Rosa. The vineyard soils are unusual, the most sandy of any found in the Russian River Valley. Consequently, Pinot Noir grown here requires continuous irrigation, right up to the day of harvest. Ted's careful management supports the vine's production of intensely flavored grapes, year after year.

Planted with the Swan selection and Pommard clone of Pinot Noir, Klopp Ranch produces small-berried clusters with deep flavors, voluptuous texture and impressive structure. Using Méthode à l'Ancienne techniques, I cold-soaked the grapes and fermented the fruit in small, open-top tanks, punching down by hand three times daily. These Burgundian practices maximize the wine's expansive aromas and flavors. The wine aged ten months in French oak barrels prior to bottling.

The 2001 grapes were wonderfully intense, allowing me to craft a luxurious wine with abundant charm and excellent aging potential. Mouthwatering aromas of blueberry, blackberry and black cherry set the stage for tiers of extravagant flavors. This sumptuous Pinot Noir is rich on the palate and has the tannin structure to age, making it ideal for collectors of full-bodied Pinots and appealing to lovers of big red wines.

Twenty-five years ago I had my eye on the property that is now my Meredith Estate vineyard. My home at the time was just down the lane, surrounded by apple orchards. Then, as now, I welcomed the cool, fog-enshrouded evenings, and I have always believed that this area, the Sebastopol Hills, is ideal for growing priceless grapes.

This Pinot Noir, the second from Meredith Estate, deepens my conviction. Four handpicked Pinot Noir clones bestow distinctive qualities: the classic California Swan selection and Mt. Eden clone present expansive fruit flavors while the two Dijon clones add structure and length. I fermented each clone separately, using labor-intensive Méthode à l'Ancienne techniques, a disciplined process of cold-soaking the grapes and whole-cluster fermentation in open-top tanks. The wine then aged for ten months in French oak barrels, coopered specifically to complement this Pinot Noir.

Dark cherry, berry and plum fruits, a hint of cola and a clean earthiness I call forest floor convey the bright, luxurious flavors of this cool region Pinot. The wine's smooth texture, lively acidity and firm structure suggest excellent aging potential as the lush flavors gracefully unfold over time.

Our newest wine comes from grapes grown in the Sebastopol Hills area of Sonoma Coast, on the southernmost edge of Russian River Valley. This Pinot Noir reflects is cooler, coastal terroir with compact fruit flavors, refined elegance and structure. The aromas and flavors convey red fruit -- raspberries and cherries—with a beguiling hint of lavender.

I produced this Pinot Noir from five carefully selected clones: three from Dijon, France and two classic California clones (Mount Eden and Swan Selection). Careful handling, including minimal racking and a light filtration prior to bottling preserved the wine's succulent fruit and natural acidity. The wine aged for ten months in French oak coopered by my favorite Burgundian barrel makers.

The fruity, firm backbone of my Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir balances richly sauced pasta dishes such as handkerchief lasagna with mushrooms and asparagus. Chicken grilled with lavender is another flavorsome pairing. As this wine develops with age, it will open like a rose, deepening the round, complex qualities typical of my Pinot Noirs.

Olivet Lane is a heritage vineyard of Pinot Noir vines, over thirty years old. Located on prime benchland just east of the Laguna de Santa Rosa, the vineyard offers fruit that perfectly defines Russian River Pinot Noir: a mouthful of power and velvet.

Ripe, rich grapes from Olivet Lane convey classic, concentrated flavors, with Bing cherry in the forefront. Adopting traditional Burgundian winemaking, which I call Méthode à l'Ancienne, I cold soak the grapes, reserving a high portion of whole clusters for fermentation. Punching down the fermenting cap several times a day elevates the impressive fruit flavors and rich textures born in this vineyard. During ten months in sweet French oak, eighty-four percent new, the wine developed its curvaceous, spicy character.

Dark ruby in color, with mouthwatering aromas of sweet cherry, lavender and vanilla, the 2001 Olivet Lane delivers on its promise -- a luscious, round wine with a long and elegant finish. Enjoy this plush wine now with the complementary flavors of braised quail or, for contrast, a fat salmon steamed in fig leaves. Vibrant fruit and voluptuous texture predestine this wine to a hearty, long life of expanding complexity.

This is the Grand Dame, a Pinot Noir that offers exquisite, seemingly endless pleasure. Captivating and gracefully seductive when young, it develops power and majesty as it ages.

Located in the northern Middle Reach of Russian River Valley, Windsor Gardens is a dry-farmed vineyard, over thirty years in age and planted with the classic Martini clone. The venerable old vines bear a small crop, rare and rich fruit with deep favor and weighty, velvety texture. I was fortunate to harvest enough fruit in 2001 to produce two hundred precious cases.

I crafted the wine using traditional Burgundian techniques, Méthode à l'Ancienne, cold soaking the grapes and fermenting in small open-top tanks. The wine aged ten months in French oak barrels specifically selected and coopered by Dargaud & Jaegle to enhance this wine.

Seductive and smooth, 2001 Windsor Gardens unfolds on the palate with elegant authority, revealing a complex array of classic aromas and flavors--rose petals, dark cherry and plum--and finishing with satiny refinement. This sultry, full-bodied wine is well suited to accompany wild mushroom ravioli or grilled lamb tenderloins with eggplant flan.

While Pinot Noir is my prime passion, my curiosity about the small, old, family-owned vineyards that pepper the Russian River Valley is insatiable. When I discovered that Joe and Steve Dutton farm a beautiful, 5-acre Sauvignon Blanc vineyard in the western hills of the region, I couldn't resist the opportunity to acquire some of the fruit. A Sauvignon Blanc planting is a Russian River rarity; and this thirty-year-old hillside vineyard is a treasure.

I fermented the Sauvignon Blanc entirely sur lies in a selection of new and used, elegant Cadus French oak. Bâtonnage, stirring the lees throughout fermentation and barrel aging, enhanced the wine's richness. The wine developed full flavors and a soft texture to complement the floral, lemongrass and mineral qualities characteristic of this unique vineyard. I make Sauvignon Blanc in a seamless, balanced style that will expand and become richer with age.

The color of light straw, this Sauvignon Blanc has the aroma of orange blossoms. The oak is gracefully integrated in a supporting role, allowing the refined flavors and harmonious texture to prevail across the palate into a long, ripe-citrus finish. A good choice to accompany many seafood dishes (especially those sauced with citrus), this Sauvignon Blanc is also an excellent match with vegetarian cuisine. When you taste this exceptional expression of Sauvignon Blanc, you will understand why I jumped at the opportunity to make wine from the fruit grown in this outstanding Russian River Valley vineyard.

If the Russian River Valley had a vineyard hall of fame, Windsor Gardens would be an inductee. At over 30-years-of-age, it is one of the area's few remaining "heritage" vineyards of Pinot Noir. Located on benchland in the northern reaches of the appellation, Windsor Gardens produces Pinot Noir with the character I associate with old, legendary Burgundies: velvety, succulent, and long lasting, both on the palate, and in the cellar.

I selectively harvested fruit from vines that grow on a dry-farmed knoll planted to the Martini clone. Full of the character that comes from venerable old vines, these grapes respond to Méthode à l'Ancienne, releasing their deep color, soft tannins and sumptuous fruit. I cold-soaked the grapes - including fifteen-percent whole clusters and a high percentage of whole berries - and fermented the fruit in small, open-top tanks. We punched down the fermentation cap several times daily. These traditional Burgundian techniques intensify the richness and roundness of the Windsor Gardens grapes. The wine aged for ten months in barrels made for us by Dargaud & Jaegle.

Windsor Gardens Pinot Noir is graceful and curvaceous, elegant with velvety weight. Deep dark cherry and sweet oak introduce this richly textured wine. Complex, intense fruit flavors continue through the wine's layered, satiny finish. Attractively soft and round at the moment, the wine has the structure to develop for many years.

In the heart of Russian River Valley, along a country road lined with old olive trees, is Olivet Lane Vineyard, one of the most mature plantings in our region. At thirty years of age, Olivet Lane is a rare, heritage vineyard, the epitome of Russian River Valley terroir.

The venerable grapes from Olivet Lane have concentrated, Bing cherry character. I extract the grapes' deep flavor by using the traditional Burgundian winemaking techniques I call Méthode à l'Ancienne. Building on a core of perfectly ripe fruit, I add even more texture by the influence of eighty-five percent new French oak barrels, custom made by François Frères. The 2000 Olivet Lane Pinot Noir aged eleven months in these barrels, enhancing the wine's attractive spicy character.

The result is a silky, curvaceous wine with a hint of mystery. There is pedigree here - a purity, elegance and richness drawn from the roots of this mature vineyard. I taste a long future for this Pinot Noir, its focused, classic tone continuing through a lasting, succulent finish.